In May my husband and I took a 4 night trip with a friend to Vienna.
They had been before - a long time ago - and I had never been and it was on my ’to visit’ list so we took a long weekend during June. In hindsight maybe the middle of the summer wasn’t the best time to travel as everywhere was quite busy, but I guess like a lot of European cities its busy all year round. Regardless of the crowds we had a brill time. We had fabulous weather, the people were really friendly and relaxed and the architecture was simply stunning.
As soon as we had settled on dates my friend booked tickets online for the Vienna Opera and we saw Das RosenKavilier. (I LOVE travelling with people who are as organised as I am.)
They were not exactly cheap, around 120 euro each, but the chance to see an opera in such an amazing building was just too good a chance to pass up.
Not only is the exterior quite spectacular but the interior is also amazing. We dressed for the evening, thankfully, as although my husband and friend wore trousers and jackets and I wore a dress and heels we were by no means the best dressed there. Some of the women looked spectacular in full evening gowns. It was quite special and I love to have the occasion to get dressed up.
My husband wisely pre ordered interval drinks and canapés to be set up on a table on the main balcony and so we had a fabulous spot to enjoy during the break.
Pre ordering interval drinks is something we always do if there is an option at the theatre/ballet/opera as the queues are usually very long and the bars usually understaffed.
This trip was my second Air B&B experience and I booked a 2 bedroom flat right in the centre of town, literally a 2 minute walk from Stephansdom. For 3 people it was a more affordable option than 2 hotel rooms and we had the additional benefit of being able to make a coffee and toast in the morning. I’d recommend giving Air B&B a try if you haven’t already, in some of the big cities it can be more expensive than budget hotels but generally it offers a nice alternative to hotels if you need more than one room.
We tried few of the ‘famous’ / ’tourist’ restaurants whilst we were there Sacher Cafe at the Sacher Hotel, Zum Schwarzen Kameel and Plauchtta and I was generally quite disappointed with all 3 of them. The Sacher Cafe was just mediocre and quite expensive. they didn’t manage to get all our orders right which for only 3 people at breakfast was not good, and service was really not what I expected. Kind of sloppy, I shouldn't have to ask for butter with my toast should I ??
Der Schwartzen Kameel was recommended by a friend who is from Vienna. Sadly, although the food - when it arrived - was good, the service and attitude of the waiters was just shockingly bad, which really let the restaurant down.
Last in this list was Plachutta. This was recommended by another friend and so we made a booking in advance, as we did with the other two places. My husband and friend had Tafelspitz which was good but I had a beef tips in mushroom and cream sauce that was just revolting. I sent the first dish back because it has so much salt it was completely inedible and the second attempt wasn’t much better. Again the staff were just surly and looked like they really didn’t want to be there and they certainly didn't even attempt to apologise for my over salted dish..
On the positive side we visited Cafe Central (made a reservation) for lunch and had great service and a delicious meal. The building has loads of history and is stunning. It is VERY popular though so reservations will cut down a ridiculous wait for a table.
I had a very good schnitzel and my friend had saluted calves liver with apple bacon and fried onions was perfectly cooked. The photo on the left here is from the interior. It was quite spectacular.
Another success was 3 Hacken Restaurant and their sister restaurant 3 Hacken Magazin over the road. We walked up to 3 Hacken Magazin in the evening and were very lucky to get a table outside. It was a beautiful temp and a clear June evening and luckily we arrived just as some people departed. Service was very good, our waitress was very friendly and offered some good wine suggestions. I ordered bone marrow and beef stroganoff and both were excellent. My husbands schnitzel (and he has a high standard) was also a success.
Following this success and given the other restaurant disappointments we decided to book the 3 Hacken Restaurant for our last evening and had a delicious dinner of Tafelspitz with good service and lovely recommended wines.
There are lots of things to see in Vienna. In fact you could just wander the streets enjoying the beautiful architecture that surrounds you. Here are some of the things we did....
Schönbrunn Palace is a ‘must see’ when visiting Vienna… its also a ’must book in advance’ if you want to avoid the crowds. It is a stunning example of baroque archetecture from the 17th century. you can see loads more photos online at their website.
We did the grand tour which took a little over an hour to complete and was really interesting. the audio guide was very user-friendly and gave a thorough explanation of what we were seeing and the history of the palace.
You can easily spend a day here, there are beautiful gardens to walk around, and a exhibition of carriages that is quite spectacular too.
The grounds for the palace are free to enter and it was nice to see locals just using them to relax and enjoy the sun in, chatting with friends and also as a jogging path for quite a few.
Its a little way out of the centre so we just arranged an uber and arrived for our 9am ticket time. It was already busy, but nothing like how busy it was when we had finished the tour. The queues as we left were really long and given how hot it was I felt quite smug that I’d organising the advance tickets.
Belvedere - both Upper and Lower were also quite fantastic. Again stunning Baroque architecture and worth a visit even if you don't want to pay to go inside.
Upper Belvedere has a fabulous art collection of some of the most famous Austrian Art as well as International artists, including Gustav Klimt, Van Gough and Monet.
Lower Belvedere plays host to temporary art exhibits. When we were there they had an exhibition ‘The Vulgar - Fashion Redefined’. Surprisingly both Upper and Lower Belvedere were not as busy as Schönbrunn Palace. Again there is loads more info on their own website.
Stephansdom is a huge imposing cathedral and although it is quite dark inside it is still simply stunning. Right in the centre of town so you can’t miss it.. however as with most attractions I would get there as early as possible as after lunchtime it gets quite busy…. and there are lots of touts selling tickets for ‘music performances’ hanging around outside that you have to almost fight your way through to get to it....
In advance and after consulting the weather forecast I arranged a private floating Island - Meine Insel.
I got this idea after seeing an episode of The Travel Man on TV. It was a bit of a trek to get to it.. maybe in hindsight an uber would have been a better way to get to it. Regardless, it was such a fun thing to do in the sunshine. Basically, you hire a floating motorised island to ride along there river on. Ours consisted of a table and sofa with a sun shade that was plenty of space for 3. I guess it would comfortably seat 6 too.
There is a bar / restaurant right next to the pick up point who do an amazing job of catering for the floating islands and although we only had a bottle of wine and a bottle of water there is the option to have a fully prepared meal delivered to your island.
The bit of the river where this is located is very popular so there were lots of people swimming in the river and on a variety of boats and canoes etc. The sun was shining and everyone including us had a fabulous time. I have never seen this type of thing anywhere else, and I have no idea why, it was great fun, and we all thoroughly enjoyed it.
During this trip we also took a day trip to Bratislava and at the end my friend and I took a train to Budapest for 4 days. more on those trips later. it was a fantastic trip.
I absolutely loved both Vienna and Budapest and would certainly recommend both cities for a short break away...
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